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http://cgi1.igl.net/tourney/games4fun/509275/
Doubles
21
March
2010
Effective immediately, and until further notice!!!
Pogo Bowl Doubles will only be hosted on Sundays & Thursdays.
Monopoly Rules
ImIn2Country Posted in Rules，
09
March
2010
GAME IS PLAYED FOR 25 TURNS, 30 MINUTES OR
A PLAYER GOES BANKRUPT OR
UNTIL 1 PLAYER REACHES NET WORTH OF $35.00M (whichever comes first)
HIGHEST NET WORTH AT END WINS
FIRST PLAYER CALLED SETS
***TABLE SETTINGS***
TURN TIMER: FAST
BONUS FOR LANDING ON FREE PARKING: $2.50M
MAXIMUM NUMBER OF TURNS IN JAIL: 1
PLAYERS NEED 3 HOUSES BEFORE HOTEL
EACH PLAYER STARTS WITH 3 PROPERTIES
TOTAL GAME TIME: 30:00
GAME TURN LIMIT: 25
GAME NET WORTH GOAL: $35.00M
GAME BANKRUPTCY LIMIT 1
CHECK THE FOLLOW BOXES ONLY!!!!!
FINES & TAXES TO FREE PARKING
PLAYERS CAN COLLECT RENT, BUILD, TRADE ETC. IN JAIL
LIMITED NUMBER OF HOUSES AND HOTELS
DOUBLE FOR LANDING ON GO
10% MORTGAGE FEE
PAY MORTGAGE FEE ON TRANSFER
ALLOW PLAYERS TO WATCH
NOTHING ELSE SHOULD BE CHECKED
10 MINUTE/3 BOOT TIMER IN EFFECT
REPORT IN LOBBY: ***WINNER///NON-WINNER
Jungle Gin Tips
ImIn2Country Posted in Jungle Gin，
08
March
2010
Knock early! It might be tempting to hold out for that gin bonus, but if you can knock early in the game and catch your opponent with a lot of high-valued cards in his hand, you can earn a whole bunch of points.
Try to keep track of discards. You don’t want to be in a situation where you’re waiting for a card that was discarded several turns ago.
Notice what cards your opponent is drawing from the discard pile. That will give you a clue as to what kinds of melds he or she is making, and might prevent you from handing over the game-winning card.
If you’re trying to make runs, it’s better to have two consecutive cards that need an "end" instead of two spaced out cards that are looking for a "middle." For example, having a 4 and 5 of the same suit is better than having a 3 and 5, because there are two cards that can form a run with the first case (either a 3 or a 6), but there’s only one card that can form a run with the second case (the 4).
Often, it’s easier to knock with two larger melds and some low cards than it is to knock with three melds.
Some people prefer getting rid of high cards as soon as possible, so they don’t end up with lots of points in their hand. On the other hand, if you have, say, a pair of queens and are playing against somebody who likes to discard their high cards, it might be worth holding on to them and hoping your opponent discards another queen.
Remember, you can arrange cards in your hand by dragging them left and right. This will help you plan your hand better.
How to Play Jungle Gin
ImIn2Country Posted in Jungle Gin，
08
March
2010
For the very first hand, the dealer is determined randomly. After that, the winner of the previous hand is chosen to be the dealer.
The dealer deals 10 cards to each player, and turns one card face-up on the discard pile. The player who did not deal has an opportunity to take the face-up card, or pass to the dealer. If the first player passes to the dealer, then the dealer has the opportunity to take the face-up card or pass. If the dealer passes as well, then the first player may draw from the draw pile like normal.
On a normal turn, a player can draw a card either from the face-up discard pile, or from the draw pile. After the player has drawn a card, he or she must discard one card into the discard pile. You are allowed to discard the card you’ve just drawn, if it was from the draw pile. You can’t, however, take a card from the face-up pile and then discard it immediately.
You can draw a card either by double-clicking on the pile you wish to draw from, or by dragging a card from that pile into your hand. You can discard either by double-clicking the card you wish to discard, or by dragging it to the discard pile.
Melds refers to the two types of groups you can create with your cards.
Runs are three or more cards of the same suit in sequence. (For example, 4-5-6 of clubs.) For the purposes of determining runs, Aces are always low.
Sets are three or more cards of the same rank. (For example, 8-8-8 or 7-7-7-7.)
A card can belong to only one meld at a time – you cannot use the same card as part of both a run and a set.
If you would like, you can click and drag cards within your hand, so you can put cards next to each other that form melds. Note that this is for your convenience only; you don’t need to drag cards next to each other for the game to count them as a meld.
You can knock when the amount of cards that are not part of a meld (known as deadwood) is worth 10 points or fewer. For scoring purposes, Aces are worth 1 point, face cards are worth 10 points, and 2 through 10 are worth their face value. For example, if your unmelded cards are two aces and a four, you may knock with six points of deadwood.
You do not have to knock just because you have 10 points or fewer. You may choose to keep playing to try and get a better score.
To knock, click the Knock button after you’ve drawn a card but before you’ve discarded. Then discard a card. If the remaining deadwood in your hand is worth 10 points or fewer, the game will let you knock.
Once you have knocked, the game will announce that you have knocked, along with the number of points of deadwood in your hand. Your hand is then displayed, grouped into melds, with any deadwood on the right. The game will automatically determine the best way to meld your hand so that you have the smallest amount of deadwood.
After you have knocked, your opponent’s hand is flipped over to reveal their melds and deadwood. They then lay off any deadwood that can fit with one of your melds. For example, if your melds included three jacks and a 2-3-4 of hearts, and your opponent had a jack and an ace of hearts among his deadwood, he can lay those cards off. Cards that are laid off don’t count towards that player’s deadwood score.
You don’t need to do anything to lay off cards – the game figures it out automatically.
Once your opponent has laid off cards (if any), your opponent’s deadwood score is tallied. If you have fewer deadwood points than your opponent, you win! But if your opponent has fewer points, they win the hand. This is known as underknocking.
Going Gin
If you are able to group all of your cards into melds and have no deadwood, this is known as "going gin." Going gin is much like knocking with zero points, except that your opponent does not get an opportunity to lay off cards. You also receive a bonus to your score for going gin.
Oklahoma Gin is a variation of Gin. It’s exactly the same as a normal game of gin, except that the first card that is turned face-up determines the knock limit. So, for example, if a seven is turned up, you must have seven or fewer deadwood points to knock. (Instead of the typical ten.) Face cards count as ten points.
In addition, if the first card turned up is a spade, the number of points won in a hand (including gin and underknock bonuses) is doubled.
Before you start a new game of Jungle Gin, you can set a number of options. Options set by default are in [brackets]:
Oklahoma Gin (first up card determines knock limit) [no]
Play a game of Oklahoma Gin instead of regular ol’ gin. In Oklahoma Gin, the first card that is turned face up determines the knock limit, and if that card is a spade, points for that hand are doubled.
Don’t allow knocking [no]
With this option on, you cannot knock. You can only go gin. You cannot select this option if you have already decided to play a game of Oklahoma Gin.
Aces are: {Low only / Low or high (Deadwood aces = 15)} [low only]
With this option you can change up the game a little and allow Aces to be used either as high or low cards (to make runs). However, when this option is turned on, any deadwood (unmatched) aces in your hand at the end of the game are worth 15 points each, not 1. This is a commonly played variation of Gin.
Multi-game match [yes]
When this option is turned on, you play several games until somebody’s match score beat the limit for this table. If this option is turned off, you simply play one game.
Score that ends the match [500]
If you chose to play a multi-game match, this setting determines the score required to end a match. Try playing a 700 point match if you want to play for a really long time.
Use Forfeit Timer [no]
Gives you a limited amount of time to make each move, as set by the pull-down menu. If you take longer than the amount of time allotted, the other player can opt to give you an additional minute to make your move. If he or she chooses not to extend your time, you lose and your opponent wins.
Lottso! Tips, Hints, Strategy to win Pogo Lottso! Games
ImIn2Country Posted in Lottso，
03
March
2010
On the surface Pogo Lottso! is a very simple bingo-like game. There are ten rounds in which you get six numbered balls and you have to fit them into corresponding numbers on six mini bingo cards on the Lottso! board.
You score 5 points for each ball you match, a bonus of 50 points if you match all six, you fill as many cards as you can, then ’scratch’ them to make your match or score and your ultimate goal is easy – achieve the all important total of 3000 for a token spin and the, admittedly small, chance of a cash prize of up to $5000. READ MORE
Monopoly ® – a Surefire Strategy
ImIn2Country Posted in Monopoly，
01
March
2010
How to win at Monopoly – a simple strategy:
- Always buy Railroads; never buy Utilities (at full price)*
- For every other property type, only buy them to complete a monopoly or to prevent opponents from completing one. Often this may mean buying as many properties as you can early in the game, but watch your cash reserves.
- At the beginning of the game, focus on acquiring a complete C-G [Color Group: all 2 or 3 properties of the same color] in Sides 1+2, even if it means trading away properties on Sides 2+3. After acquiring one of these C-Gs, build 3 houses as quickly as possible: no more houses, no less!
- Once your first C-G starts to generate some cash, focus on completing a C-G and building 3 houses in Sides 3+4.
- Note: 3 houses is the "sweet spot" in the game as shown in Table 1 below. That’s where you’re making the best use of your money.
- Single properties are the least good investment if you don’t build on them.
- The only exception to the above rules are when you need to acquire stray properties to prevent your opponents from completing their Color-Groups to accomplish the above strategy.
- Jail can be good. Stay in Jail as long as you can if an opponent owns a monopoly – at that point in the game, moving around the board will likely lose you money. Until that happens, though, pay the $50 and leave Jail as soon as possible: you need to be in the property acquisition race and collecting your $200 salary.
- One interesting exception: Do you need St. James or Tennessee Aves to complete your C-G? Then stay in Jail and try to get out by rolling doubles: doing so will increase your chances of landing on those squares by about 25%.
The 5 best starting positions are – in order:
- All 4 railroads
- One reason why this is the best starting point: the revenue flow from railroads is much more constant over time whereas some of the other properties may have the same ROI but they come with bigger payouts over longer time spans. Owning 3-4 railroads is a cash cow: it will bring a continuous flow of money that can fund your monopolies.
- 3 houses on each of the orange Color-Group (St James/Tennessee/New York)
- 3 houses on each of the light blue C-G (Oriental/Vermont/Connecticut)
- 3 houses on each of the light purple C-G (St Charles/States/Virginia)
- A hotel on each of the dark purple C-G (Mediterranean /Baltic)
- This option gives by far the worst return of the 5 starting positions; in fact, until you get 4 houses, this C-G is the worst investment in the game!
- However, his option does have 2 advantages: it is the cheapest of the 5 and it only has 2 properties so owning the entire C-G may be easier, especially in large games.
